Back Through Time by M.I. Smith "...imagine a time before top fuel dragsters," Ken intones as they wander over yet another scenic and educational footpath, intent on not stumbling in the rubble. Michael looks down at his left hand and notices that his fingers are covered with reddish blotches. He reaches into his pocket and extracts the small pink rock he has been absently-mindedly fondling. It was just purchased in a shop at the entrance to the Petrified Forest National Park. "Huh," he says. They are now in the Park's museum grounds looking at redwood logs which are actually giant lumps of rock. Michael rubs some more dye off of the stone with his thumb. Ken looks over, "That's very funny. I was wondering why I'd never seen agates in all those colors before." "Well it's still the right color." Michael spent the outrageous sum of $1.09 to buy the heart-shaped stone for a female friend who is enamoured of shades of pink. "And Erika will probably like it better that it's dyed. Lucky I didn't get one for Debbie. She's not that type." "Story of your life." "Your side's better." Ken and Michael are now on the last leg of a six day Self-Guided-Loop-Trails of the Southwest marathon. "When we were here in 1963 I got a card with little samples of different rocks glued to it," Ken reminisces. "It was so cool." "Yeah, I got one of those on our trip to Wisconsin too." At the impressionable age of 7, both boys' families had taken cross country road trips wherein many trinkets were purchased. "This time we could be collecting them on the hoof." Ken kicks a pebble. "Except for all the signs, of course." Michael points to the museum gift shop. "Here we are in Petrified Glyph Natural Pork, and it's time to SHOP. Maybe we can find a card with samples of all the dyes." He is still a little upset about his rock. This store also has a bin of brightly colored rocks. The clerk is trying to have a conversation with a man in brand-shiny-new motorcycle leathers, "Even if we don't speak the same language we all know numbers." They have been playing tag with a large group on some kind of see-America rental-tour, all on identical new Yamaha-Fake-Harleys. None of them seems to speak enough English to call for help if a bike drops. "Je ne comprends pas?" "Numbers." She scribbles with her finger on the counter top. "Je ne sais pas...." "You know money, numbers." She points to the cash register. "We all know money." "Ah, oui. Merci." He leaves with a perplexed look on his face. "I've never seen agates this color. Are these the real colors?" Ken asks the clerk. "No, they're all dyed in Brazil," she answers. "I think the chemicals are too caustic to use around here," she adds offhand. Ken and Michael exchange glances. Michael looks at his hand and says, "Hmm, postcards." "What else is new." Ken says. "What?" the woman asks. "Oh, nothing..." Ken replies. "Say, do you have those little rock collections? You know, a card with a bunch of different rocks glued to it?" "I haven't seen those in a long time. Maybe one of the rock shops up along I40 might still have them." Michael lays four cards on the counter, "I'll take these." Back in the car he transfers the cards to his travel bag and tosses the empty paper bag into the back seat. The night before, sitting on a sticky naugahide bench in a dingy Mexican restaurant in Holbrook, Arizona, they had observed a family of four Scandinavians trying to make sense of the menu. The father looked like a middle-school teacher, permanently disapproving. Mother, just a little worried, and Daughter with Probable-husband, their backs to the boys, are trying to make the best of it. Mother sounds out various descriptions. "Ta Ko. Pla-ate. Rice. Beans. Soap Oh-pee-ah." The waitress brings Ken and Michael their food. Ken says, "You think we could point to stuff on our plates and help them out?" "Probably wouldn't matter," she answers. "They're all vegetarians." She goes to assist the family in their deliberations. "Everything has meat in it." She waves vaguely to some wilted lettuce in a bowl behind her, "Except the salad bar." The daughter points to the menu and utters a few English nouns. "No. The sauces are already made. With meat. We could strain the red for you but it would still have that meat taste. The green is hopeless." She is speaking much too fast for any of her customers to understand. "Why don't you try the Quesidilla or the Guac salad. We can leave out the meat." She waves her finger over the menu and looks expectant. They all nod as if they have understood so she writes on her order book, "Ok, two Quesidillas and two Guacs. Alright. Thanks." She collects the menus and hurries away. Michael cautiously probes the contents of his tamale plate. "This may kill me," he waves a lump of something speared on his fork. "Think they have espresso?" Ken wonders. "La Manteca is going to need a wakeup call later." When the family's food arrives the father's stern expression turns momentarily to surprise and disgust but settles quickly back into disapproval. They gamely eat their meals, probably imagining some nice lutefisk when they return to civilization. Earlier that day, on the way from Chinle to Holbrook the travelers saw a Burger King billboard near a McDonalds. It said "Only 95 miles, in Chinle." There is no McDonalds in Chinle, so two hours previously their choices had been Burger King or A&W. "Gosh, wouldn't it be great to find a Denny's just about now?" Michael had said as they were looking for a mid-day snack. "My parents always kept some cookies in the car to bribe my brother and me when we got out of hand. Let's check into that Gas-Food there and get some for the road," Ken suggests. The small market on the corner turns out to be a full service operation. Laundromat, Video Rental, Food, Gasoline, and some Indian Mystery Trinkets by the cash register. But the cookie choices are limited to Oreos and Pop Tarts. "Maybe not," Michael says. As they return to the car a man in a wheelchair rolls over and places himself directly behind their rear bumper. "Hi, I'm Cody," he holds out his hand. They all hesitantly shake hands. "I'm a Vietnam Vet. Navajo. Where you from?" He has very effectively immobilized them. Ken and Michael exchange a resigned glance, "California." Michael points to the rental car's license plate. After two days on the road Ken had noticed that, even though they got the car in Albuquerque, the plate was from California. "No wonder everyone has been treating us like tourists," he said when he pointed it out to Michael. "I used to live in Duarte," Cody says. "Now I'm back here." "L.A., huh?" Ken says. "Lovely area...." "Yeah. Duarte. Covina. All over there. Say you guys couldn't help me out with a $1.50 to get something to eat could you?" They exchange another glance. "I guess we can split the damage," Michael says. "Here's my dollar." Ken winces but also hands Cody a dollar. Michael opens the driver side door. "Thanks." The money quickly disappears but Cody shows no sign of moving away from the bumper. "You know I used to go out and party in Duarte all the time. Man I remember the bars. The girls. Yeah." "Yup, probably still the same down there," Ken says, opening his door. They make motions as if they are getting into the car. "Les'see....the Watering Hole, um, Last Chance. Yeah, those were the days. You remember any of those places?" Cody asks. "Can't say as I do," Ken answers, "Been a long time." "Wow, those were good times," Cody makes a stab at keeping the conversational ball rolling. "I'm sure," Michael agrees, inching closer to his car seat. "Long time now I guess," Cody muses. "Things are probably different now." Ken is getting into the car in slow motion. "Yeah, well," Cody resigns. "Have a good one." He finally rolls off towards the A&W. As they pull out of the parking lot Michael says, "I thought we might have to drive over him." "If he spends that on food, I'll buy him lunch at Chez Panniss." Ken opens the Oreo package and offers them to Michael. "Hey," Michael defends Cody, "It is illegal to posses or consume alcoholic beverages," he quotes from the previous night's Holiday Inn menu, "on the Navajo Reservation." Nevermind that their ice chest contains a bag of limes and a bottle of tequila that they have been nursing from each evening. Michael selects a cookie and then consigns a stray piece of plastic wrap to the back seat gulag. "If we had gotten some nice cookies in Santa Fe...." "We would have eaten them by now," Ken interrupts. "Right." They take the long way around Canyon de Chelly, skipping a few scenic outlooks just to prove that they can. Ken points to the sweeping panorama beyond the driver's-side window. "Your side is better," Michael says, pointing to an identical panorama gliding past Ken's side of the car. As they turn onto Hwy 12 Michael sees a vandalized road sign and asks, "What'd that say? Suck on Road?" "Stock on Road. Silly." And for the next 50 miles, every time they see an animal near the road, Ken warns Michael, who has put the car on cruise control and is playing a Sheryl Crow tape a little louder than he really politely should, with the phrase, "Suck on road." After an hour or two of high mountain driving they return to civilization and take I40 to Holbrook. As each exit approaches there are flurries of billboards for tourist-trap Indian stores. "Only 5 miles to Ortega's Indian Trader." "Indian pots. $5.99." "Only 2 miles". "Easy return to I40." "Gas. Food. Clean Restrooms." "Next exit." "Visit Cree's first, owned by Navajo." A ringer in the set. Then, "Here it is!" "Turn off now!." "Man I remember those all over Wyoming and Nebraska," Michael channels his family trip. "I whined about stopping at every one. I don't think my Dad ever forgave me. Little America was the best." "We got a bunch of cool stuff. Tiny Indian Drums. All that kind of crap," Ken agrees. "I should get something for Jamie." Jamie is Debbie's three year old son. "I think you should take him on a road trip." "Oh wouldn't that be joyful. Maybe later." As they left Chaco Canyon the day before, the midden in the back seat of the car had taken on a form that would not be appreciated by future archeologists specializing in rental car returns. Explanatory loop trail brochures and empty film boxes made a protective cover for food containers and rumpled paper towels from lunch, which overlaid a thin layer of travel brochures and superfluous maps, all on a solid foundation of Santa Fe newspapers and gallery guides. "You know, I think the whole point of this place is to test our honesty," Ken says. "They should skip all the explanations and just enlarge the `Please do not take anything' part of the signs." "I think they have it all wrong. Those round Kiva things were sewage treatment vats. Forget those drawings of rooms full of city council meetings, this whole place was a water reclamation facility." Michael has been pondering why there are mysterious channels between certain walls in the ruins. "That's my artist's conception, anyway. Too bad I can't draw. I could do the new signs for you." Ken points out a particularly dramatic rock outcropping on Michael's side of the car, "Your side is better." "Yahsure, yabetcha." After studying the map and asking advice from various rangers Michael comes to the conclusion that a back road from Shiprock to Lukachukai would be the most scenic and challenging way to continue the trip. The added attraction is covering a 10 mile stretch of US 666. All they need to do is find a motel somewhere in between. The late afternoon drive through high desert, singing along with a Dead Kennedy's tape under full cruise control is uneventful. But on arrival, Farmington, even though it boasts a few motels and an Italian restaurant listing in the AAA guide book, appears to be an industrial wasteland. "I take it back," Ken says. "What?" "The part I said yesterday up in the mountains about how everything looks great at sunset. I don't think this place will." "Maybe you're not giving it a chance. You never know." "If it's all the same to you, I don't want to find out." "Ok, Shiprock, next stop. There must be some place to stay there." "Maybe they'll have a vacant cliff dwelling or something." But Shiprock proves to have, as the Harper's magazine article (which Ken has so far neglected to show Michael) mentions, a Burger King and a gas station. The article details the horrifying decline of the reservation youth whose only outlets are drinking, driving, and mayhem; but short-changes the area somewhat, since there also appears to be a supermarket and a large number of rundown dwellings. There is, however, no Inn for the Travelers. Michael pulls into the Burger King parking lot. "Why are we stopping?" Ken asks. "You need to take a picture of me." "I do?" "The route 666 sign. I need a picture." "OK, but I have to pee first. Don't start without me." Ken ambles over to the gas station, but returns quickly. "Maybe I'll try the B.K." He returns quickly again. "Damn place. I guess they don't need restrooms. Do you really have to take a picture now? We're going to be on 666 for a while aren't we?" "Yup. There's a perfectly good sign right there." "If we had a car full of kids we'd be in big trouble right now," Ken observes "If we'd gotten one of those little plastic pots in Santa Fe, everything'd be fine." Michael replies as he drops an empty film box into the back seat. After the picture they return to the car to figure out what to do. Backtracking to prove that the sunset will not work on Farmington seems unpleasant, and there is no indication of other useful habitation for miles in any other direction on the map. "Lets just go on to Chinle," Ken suggests. "Fine, but you're going to have to drive." "Sure, no problem." They switch sides. "So," Ken looks straight ahead. "How do we get there?" "We need to find 64," Michael squints at the map. "See I told you. It's lucky we got that picture when we did." He rummages for his reading glasses, moves the map up and down, and finally realizes that taking his shades off helps. "The map shows it branching off just after that bridge we crossed over there." "There's a sign," Ken points across the road. The sign is oblique to them so they can barely make out the numbers and arrows. "64. I think. Looks like we turn here." "Lets roll....I guess." The road goes west but is completely devoid of markings for the first 15 miles. "Hey I saw a mileage marker with 594 on it," Ken says. "You see a 594 on the map?" "Nope. I didn't see highway numbers on the markers before either. My mother would be having a fit just about now." "Well that's what it said." Now that they are climbing back into the mountains the scenery is improving. But there are no more markers so Michael isn't able to verify Ken's findings. "I guess it's lucky we didn't try the over-the-top-dirt-road-thing I was going to do," Michael ruminates. "We'd probably be lost in Indian country for days." Ken is rubbernecking at Shiprock mesa in the distance on his side, and keeping minimal attention on the road when a highway number sign rushes past. "Sixty-four. Kewel," Michael is relieved. "We are on the right track." "What?" "I just saw a highway sign. We're on 64." "Huh," Ken seems unconcerned. "You know, this area really reminds me of New Mexico." "And my side is better," Michael indicates a series of barren mountain valleys dissolving into the distance. At dusk the night before, heading to Cuba, N.M. on highway 96, they passed the Coon Haller Cafe. "Should'a brought mah confederate flag patch," Michael said. "The Corn Holer Cafe?" Ken sounds amazed. "My buddies up north tole me to look y'all up down here at the Corn Holer. Said you was a great buncha guys. How y'all doin?" "I think we have achieved that forty-years-into-the-past thing that Jim promised." Jim, Ken's old friend who now lives in Santa Fe, recently provided the travelers with lodging and logistical advice. "Imagine a time before Espresso and Herbal High Colonics." Michael looks around to watch the Cafe recede into the twilight, "Yup, I think we made it." He settles into his seat. "Now. How d'we get back?" "I think I can guarantee you that we're not returning through Taos Pueblo." Ken swerves to avoid a bird-like being that is rushing across the road. "I still can't believe I paid $16 to get in there." "It does seem improbable," Michael agrees. "But the Mountain Girls in Taos proper were cute." They pass a road sign with a hand-drawn UFO floating above the silhouette of a cow. "Where'd you come up with that Mountain Girl thing anyway?" "I don't know, it just came to me. Like a vision, y'know. All those nubile young blonde women. They look like they work on their own trucks and use ancient home remedies. Maybe dabble with a little witchcraft on the side. I just imagine everyone in Boulder looking like that." "So why don't you marry one? "I already failed the blue-green algae test," Michael shrugs. "I just couldn't remember which was which and took them all at the wrong times. That's why it didn't work for me. That's what Renee said anyway." "Renee's from Boulder? "Yup." Michael glances out the window as a Pass With Care road sign whizzes by. Someone has painted over the first and last letters of the message. "I can't remember if we went through Boulder when I was a kid. Maybe I got bit by a Moutain Girl mosquito or something." Ken points past the road sign at a tree-lined ridge backlit by the failing sunlight, "Your side is better." "She'd probably like Taos Pueblo," Michael nods at the trees. "She would'a started talking to the women and ended up initiated into some kind of tourist-level Kiva-dancing group or something. Me? I never talk to anyone." "Well, the gatekeeper wasn't exactly a friendly outgoing guy himself. He was mumbling in some forgotten language the entire time he added up our bill. Probably describing our white-devil assholes in detail so he could remember why he hated each and every one of us individually." "Can't blame him. Except for the $16 of course. I mean look at the guide book description." Michael fumbles with the guide, "This picturesque pueblo is the tallest in the Southwest. Electricity and running water are banned. Men wear blankets around their heads." He tosses the book over his shoulder. "How'd you like to have a bunch of bozos in shorts and dumb tee-shirts wandering around your front yard staring at your piquant existence? Not to mention space cadets channeling their own personal primitive-back-to-nature-scatter-gather-spiritual-guides while communing with your fresh-water supply." "Should'a known I guess. Next time we'll stick to the pre-columbian cave tour." "No. It's better that we did it. At least the curio shops were closed. Now THAT would have been depressing." Another road-sign-aided zips past, this one with a knife and fork added to the cow silhouette. The previous day they had been walking around the center of Santa Fe looking for something that was not made explicitly for tourists. Surrounded on all sides by `Gift' shops purveying reproductions of Indian artifacts, modern interpretations of Indian jewelry, and Indian pottery made in Taiwan, plus galleries selling polished Santa Fe paintings, polished Santa Fe sculpture, and polished Santa Fe rocks, they felt out of place for being precisely in place. "You know, I feel I'm on the streets of Thira right now," Michael says, thinking of Santorini, the Aegean Island that is chock-full-o'shops. "It does have that feel," Ken admits. "The streets are a little wider here." "And there are no Germans or Australians." "I heard some German in the restaurant." "Ok, not many Germans, fewer Australians. And no students. Its too expensive for students," Ken postulates. "I suppose so," Michael agrees. "But it is Where America Goes to Shop." "I wonder if you can buy milk around here anywhere." "Who needs milk when you can get your genuine copies of local archeological wonders, in durable plastic. Its food for the soul." "You saw plastic Indian pots?" Ken asks. "No. You didn't." "Well, virtual plastic pots." Michael looks around, "You're right, I haven't seen any Little Plastic Pueblos. Yet. But at least you can buy milk in the Plaka." "I think this is completely different from Athens. Everything costs too much here to attract the same type of budget travelers." An older Anglo woman, wearing all black and encrusted with silver and turquoise jewelry pauses in front of a gallery window. She points and says something to her husband who is intently studying the sidewalk. "But the spirit is the same." Michael surreptitiously points out the woman's fingers as they pass, "Niiiice nails. I've never seen turquoise polish before. I wonder if I can find some for Erika." "You better not." "One of these shops MUST have it," he waves expansively. "But, yeah, it would clash with the pink. How 80's of me." "The style here is completely different," Ken continues to disagree with the main premise. "Look at all these women-in-black. Slightly older, with straight grey hair and that strong independent carriage. Somebody's minting O'Keefe copies around here and letting them loose. You wouldn't see those in the Plaka. You'd see fat mid-westerners in shorts with video cameras stuck to their eye holes." A gaggle of high school students with cameras stops at the corner. Each one takes a picture looking down through a covered sidewalk. Some are kneeling lower and some are just standing at head height. As they pass Michael says, "You should get a couple from up here," waving his hand over his head, "Just to cover the bases, I mean." They look at him blankly. "You shouldn't talk to strangers," Ken advises. "Especially him." "Let's get some postcards," Michael points out `The Trading Post.' "That looks like my kind of place." "Oh no." "No really. Postcards are about the only thing you can find that has any individual character anymore. I mean you can fake them, like the `Howdy from ' ones, but mostly they are the genuine article. Except, actually, I went into a mall somewhere outside Boston once because I couldn't find any other stores, and all they had were Hallmark Cards. Not a single thing that wasn't available anywhere else in America." "That's nice Michael." "Am I rambling?" "No. No. Not at all." Michael selects two dollars' worth of cards as Ken studies the earing case. After they leave he says, "You know, I wish I knew about jewelry so I could recognize the good things. I'd like to get something for Debbie." "It probably wouldn't matter. It's a hopeless proposition buying that stuff for girls. They usually don't like whatever you select anyway." "But at least I would know it was good if she hated it." "Ah, yes, I guess that helps." Michael surveys the surrounding territory and then points off into the distance, "Still think we're not in Athens?" On the next corner is a Greek Taverna. "Great. I was getting tired of that smokey chipotle flavored blue corn enchilada thing." "Not." Michael consults the hotel guide map. "Lets go to the Indian Museum then." The Institute of American Indian Arts is dedicated to preserving and developing Native American artistic traditions. After paying the required museum fees they enter a dimly lit circular room with a large wooden totem in the middle. This is apparently a model of a pueblo Kiva, meeting room, except there is some kind of new-agey rock music playing in the back ground. "Is this supposed to get me into the mood?" Michael wonders aloud. "Maybe it's emblematic of the mixing of old and new. If we'd read the guide book we'd probably already know all this by now." Beyond the model Kiva there are rooms full of work done by students at the school over the past fifty years. A video tape of interviews with some of the artists is playing in the background. Michael hears one say, "If I see one more painting of a warrior riding off into the sunset I'm gonna puke." As they leave, through the Kiva again, the music has been replaced with Native American chants. "I guess we just had a momentary programming error," Ken says. "Mistakes were made," Michael agrees. "I liked the art though." "My side was better," Ken replies. The morning before, the boys had set out to tour a cave dwelling site in the hills. Emily, Jim's on-this-week girlfriend was acting as their faithful native guide because she had found them so hysterically funny under the influence of four of Jim's hand-made cappucinos at breakfast. After clearing a space on the back seat for her and making a provisioning stop, a fourty-five minute drive into the mountains between Santa Fe and Los Alamos took them to the entrance of the Tsankawi ruins where they collected their requisite park map and pedagogical guide. "Imagine a time before Home Depot," Ken reads from the brochure. "It doesn't say that," Emily declares making a swipe at the guide. "Does it?" "Right here," Ken holds the brochure too far away for her to read anything. "See." "Alright, stop dawdling. We've got places to see and people to be," Michael orders the troops. "But first I've got to pee." "We'll wait here." On the trail Ken feels compelled to stop at each numbered marker and read the relevant section of the guide. It's a good thing because Michael is not used to the altitude and can use the breathers. "Those look like rocks to me," Michael muses. "But they're really old rocks," Emily points out. Once on top of the mesa Ken sweeps his hand around the incredibly expansive horizon and points to a power pole in the distance. Pretending to read from the booklet again he says, "This vast array of artifacts that we believe was named the `Grid of Power' had a mystical significance to these early residents. From excavations in their hauntingly massive habitations, called `Suburbs', we find that they mirrored these almost perfectly perpendicular layouts in patterns of crude iron tubes below their dwellings. What magical meaning the patterns had for these primitive peoples has been lost in the mists of time. Time... Time...." "I suppose if you were an archeologist you could see something in this. I guess that's part of a wall," Michael waves his hand in a semicircular direction around a clump of rocks and grass with a depression in the middle. "I wonder if they had snowball fights?" "Are we getting punchy and ready for lunch?" Emily asks. "Yes, Mom. Do we get cookies and a nap too?" "Coffee wearing off?" Emily counters. "Looks like those people with the kids up there may be leaving their nice shady tree," Ken points. "Lets wait for them to clear out." After lunch, and illegally feeding a demanding bluejay, they trek down the return leg of the loop trail, past the cliff dwellings themselves. Some of the caves have mud-plastered interiors to keep the dust down and holes carved in the rock to hold poles for door coverings or hanging cooking utensils. "Sweeping views. Built in appliances," Ken lists the features. "Low maintenance fireplace. Move in condition." "Rattlesnake," Michael indicates a small reptile in the next cave. "Ok," Ken concedes. "Some problems with previous tenants. Nothing you couldn't shake a big stick at." Emily points to a petroglyph, "Look. There's the Kokapeli. You know, the Santa Fe logo..." Michael peers at some scratches in the cliff face. "Just below the spiral." "Spiral. Good." Michael tilts his head to one side, then the other. "Ok. "The guy playing the flute," Emily provides a bit more guidance. "See, there's the flute." "Oh, yeah. He's standing on someone else's head. That's what confused me." "He usually has a giant erection," Emily expounds. "But they cut that part out of the logo." "Anti-male assholes," Michael mumbles. "This one seems to have been edited too. No wait. No. Oh, nevermind....Now everything looks like a penis." Ken stops at the next numbered outpost. "Even in this harsh environment, humans manage to cling to life and eke out a meager existence," he appears to quote from the guide. "It doesn't seem like it would be so hard to live in these caves," Emily says. "Once all the patio awnings and doors and stuff were installed, anyway." "No," Ken replies. "But, now I'm reading from the AAA Resort Guide." "My side was better," Emily retorts. xxx (c) 1998,99 Michael Schippling